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Each year for Christmas dinner, I like to pull out all the stops and cook a meal that will be remembered as delicious, indulgent, and most importantly a huge celebration of the Holiday. In past years, prime rib often took the center stage for Christmas dinner, providing a satisfying and reliable performance, while happily leaving both Mr. B and I in a beef induced haze until New Year’s Day. This Christmas my family joined us at the table, and I wanted to move beyond the reliable into something new but equally as special.

Earlier in 2008, I stumbled across pork chops from the incredible 100% Kurobuta Berkshire pork of Heritage Pork International. It was the best pork I have ever tasted. Sweet, moist, and sophisticated, to me the flavor truly captured the essence of pork.

Intrigued, I looked up the company and learned that Heritage Pork International is based in Iowa. The company works directly with farmers to ensure that each hog sent to their facility has an identification number and pedigree, guaranteeing a pure Berkshire hog. They process just over 200 hogs per week, and fortunately for home cooks like me, will ship the freshly butchered pork direct. However, it gets even better- the prices are half of what you would pay through a well known company such as Dean and Deluca for the same cut.

Then Gourmet printed a recipe for Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port Sauce, inspiration hit and Christmas dinner was set. I ordered an eight bone loin rack roast and literally did a little jig when the box arrived. Inside was the most beautiful pork roast I have ever seen. A thick blanket of snowy white fat wrapped around the tender pink center, which was neatly divided by eight thick rib bones. Some pig!

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The pork has landed.

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It almost looks like red meat doesn’t it?

I followed the recipe exactly, filling the roast on Christmas Eve with a stuffing made from apples, apricots, prunes, shallots, and other ingredients cooked gently in port. The only step skipped was wrapping the roast in bacon, as the thick outer layer of fat on the roast left no need for bacon to keep the meat moist. The final result? Fantastic. The roast was beautiful, delicious, and will be the source of happy Christmas dinner memories throughout the year.

Preparing the stuffing

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Creating a center pocket in the roast for stuffing

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Hot out of the oven and resting for a bit

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Quick shot before delivering to an eager table

Berkshire Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port Sauce

Gourmet Magazine, 2008 (serves 8)

Ingredients:

For stuffing:
1/4 pound California dried apricots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 pound pitted prunes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2/3 cup ruby Port
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 small shallot, finely chopped
3/4 stick unsalted butter
1 tart apple such as Granny Smith, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

For roast:
1 (6-pound) bone-in pork loin roast (8-10 ribs), at room temperature 1 hour
9 or 10 bacon slices (omit these if using Heritage Berkshire Pork)

For port sauce:
1/2 cup ruby Port
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups water, divided
2 teaspoons arrowroot

Directions:
Make stuffing:
Simmer apricots, prunes, and Port in a small heavy saucepan, covered, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes.

Cook onion and shallot in butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add apple and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until apple is just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in apricot mixture and cool.

Stuff and roast pork:
Preheat oven to 500°F with rack in middle.

Make a pocket in center of roast by making a horizontal 1 1/2-inch-wide cut into 1 end of roast with a long thin knife, repeating from opposite end so pocket runs all the way through. Then make a vertical cut through center (forming a cross) to widen pocket. Push about 1 cup stuffing into pocket using a long-handled wooden spoon (you may need to stuff from both sides if roast is long). Reserve remaining stuffing for sauce.

Season roast with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and put in a large flameproof roasting pan. Wrap with bacon, between rib bones, tucking ends under roast. Roast pork 20 minutes, then reduce oven to 325°F and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted 2 inches into center of roast (do not touch bone or stuffing) registers 155°F, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours total.

Transfer roast to a cutting board, reserving pan, and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 15 to 20 minutes. (Temperature of meat will rise to about 160°F; meat will be slightly pink.)

Make sauce:
Skim fat from pan drippings and reserve 1 1/2 tablespoons fat. Straddle pan across 2 burners and add Port to drippings, then deglaze pan by boiling over high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, 1 minute. Strain pan juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids.

Cook shallot in reserved fat in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in pan juices, 1 1/4 cups water, and reserved fruit stuffing and bring to a simmer. Whisk together arrowroot and remaining 1/4 cup water until smooth, then whisk into sauce with any juices from cutting board.

Simmer sauce, whisking occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Carve roast into chops by cutting between ribs, then serve with sauce.

Cooks’ notes:
- Stuffing can be made 2 days ahead and chilled.
- Uncooked roast improves in flavor if stuffed, seasoned, and wrapped with bacon 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature before roasting.

 

 

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For all of you malbec lovers out there-take note. I recently found two 2005 Pasodoble bottles after reading the recommendation from a savvy buyer at K & L Wines. Of course by the time I tried to order it K & L was sold out. Luckily, I was able to add it to an order placed with Wally’s for the attractive price of $15 per bottle. Anxious to finally try this wine and looking for a pairing to go with Phoo-D’s Coq au Vin, I reached for this bolder red wine last week.

Here are the tasting notes:
Light ruby in color the wine offered a bright, racy, yet earthbound bouquet. The first few sips were pleasing with a full berry flavor ending with nice acidity and a white pepper finish. It was good with the Coq au Vin though I think a rustic red Rhone blend or Vouvray sec would have been better suited for the meal. The food did not make the wine better, which is fine as I think it is a very pleasing wine that could drink easily on its own. For the second bottle, I will try pairing it with a grilled rib-eye.

This wine seems full, fruit forward but clearly on the dry side, and has a distinguished arc of petrol and black cherry to it. Pasodoble is a Bordeaux style blend of 34% Cab, 33% Malbec and 33% Syrah made by established French winemakers venturing into Argentina. I would say the malbec dominates the palate-which is great. If you love quality Argentinian malbec you cannot go wrong with this wine and you may find it to be an interesting variation to the increasingly popular and affordable malbecs Argentina is now famous for.

Cheers!

 

 

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The week between Christmas and New Year’s Day was a week of epic eating. The line up included Fire Roasted Chicken Enchiladas (Christmas Eve), Hearty Meat Lover’s Lasagna, chocolate filled croissants, Berkshire Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port sauce (Christmas), Bourbon Pecan ice cream, Meyer Lemon Martinis, and believe it or not, much more.

My family arrived from the West Coast to experience a cold and snowy Midwest Christmas and we celebrated by eating, drinking, and playing games for hours on end. If I don’t see another piece of toffee or a Monopoly card for six months, I think I’ll be a happy woman! Mr. B and I are both ready to embrace January with salad forks in hand. However before we dive into the healthiest month of the year, I couldn’t let such good food pass through our bellies without sharing the recipes.

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We started off a day or two before everyone arrived, by making a delicious Coq au Vin from The Gourmet cookbook. I’ve tried other Coq au Vin recipes before, including Alton Brown’s which requires a two day commitment, and am happy to say that this recipe is simplified and very tasty. Instead of using an entire chicken, I substituted chicken legs, since that is our favorite cut of chicken. Also, in past recipes I’ve used both fresh pearl onions (which need to be trimmed, peeled, etc.) and frozen (easy, already peeled). Frozen is definitely the way to go. Fresh just doesn’t make enough of a difference for me to justify the time and fussiness of trying to peel several tiny pearl onions.

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The braising wine used in the Coq au Vin was a Concannon Petite Sirah from California. This is an excellent all purpose wine, both for drinking and cooking. The wine is characterized by a strong backbone, a pleasing dried fruit flavor, and a dry finish. It nicely balances out the fat of chicken and bacon in the dish, without disappearing into the background. The recipe called for a white wine to give the dish a more “appealing” presentation, however we thought that the red wine added a deeper flavor and was more suitable for a cold winter night.

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As with most braised dishes, the Coq au Vin was even better on days two and three. I would not hesitate to serve this to guests, and entertaining can be even easier since the dish benefits from being made ahead.

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Coq au Vin
Recipe minimally adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook
Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 cups pearl onions (frozen is easiest)
10 oz slab bacon, cut into 1″ x 1/4″ strips
1 (4″) piece celery rib
6 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, plus 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped (for garnish)
1 fresh thyme sprig
1 Turkish bay leaf or 1/2 California bay leaf
3 1/2 lbs of chicken pieces, rinsed and patted dry
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups dry white or red wine
3/4 cup chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium broth
1 pound small mushrooms, trimmed and halved
1/4 cup Cognac or other brandy
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened

Cheesecloth
Kitchen string

Directions:

Set pearl onions in a colander to thaw slightly and drain any resulting liquid.

Cook bacon in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it is browned but not crisp and most of the fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off and reserve all but 2 tablespoons of fat from skillet; set skillet aside (do not clean).

Wrap celery, 6 parsley sprigs, thyme sprig, and bay leaf in cheesecloth and tie with kitchen string to make a bouquet garni.

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. In the skillet used to cook the bacon, heat remaining fat over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Brown chicken in two batches, turning occasionally, 6-10 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

Add onions to skillet and cook until browned, shaking skillet occasionally – about 10 minutes. Transfer onions with a slotted spoon to a 5-quart heavy pot (set skillet aside), add bacon, and stir in wine and stock. Add bouquet garni, bring to a simmer, and simmer, covered for 10 minutes. Add chicken and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile heat reserved fat in skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they release their liquid, 5-8 minutes. Carefully add Cognac and cook until liquid is reduced to 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes.

Add mushroom mixture to chicken and simmer, covered, until chicken is tender, about 10 minutes more.

With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken, bacon, and vegetables to a platter and keep warm, covered with foil. Discard bouquet garni.

Make a beurre manie by mashing flour and butter into a paste with a fork in a small bowl. Bring braising liquid to a simmer and whisk in beurre manie a little at a time. Simmer, whisking constantly, until sauce is smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

Season sauce with salt and pepper and spoon over chicken, then sprinkle with parsley.

 

 

 

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