Morel and Asparagus Risotto

My well documented love of fungi is directly descended from my Mother’s taste buds. When I lived with my parents, Mom was a kindred spirit or co-conspirator (take your pick) in all things mushroom. We would sauté skillets full of fresh fungi and enjoy the deep delicious flavors regularly. My father, in his typical “dare to be different” fashion, hated mushrooms in all forms: cooked, fresh, sautéed, stewed- no thank you, don’t even think about it. When my younger brother arrived on the scene he followed my father’s lead and the gender lines were drawn in our family battle over meals with mushrooms.

After I moved to the Midwest, Mr. B introduced me to the wonders of wild morel mushrooms and the great fun which can be had gathering them yourself. While we enjoyed our finds, I knew it was a joy that could not be shared. I had given up all hope of being able to include mushrooms in dishes cooked for the other men in my family, resigning myself to a lifetime of fungi free family gatherings. But then, exactly one year ago, when my family came to visit us in the Midwest for the first time- magic occurred.

Wild Morel Mushroom

We decided to take the whole family out morel hunting to get a bit of exercise. It was a perfect spring day filled with warm sunshine and a cheerful breeze. We wandered through the tall Cottonwood forest near our house for hours, exploring every bump and crevice in search of morels. My father and brother both got into the hunt, becoming very adept at spotting the small yellow mushrooms hidden among the leaves. We picked about a dozen mushrooms, and then headed home to cook our finds. As I pondered how I could possibly prepare the morels in a way that would appeal to self-avowed mushroom haters, the idea of a creamy risotto floated into my head. Perfect! Everyone likes rice and how could one resist a richly flavored risotto studded with fresh morels and spring asparagus?

Ingredients for the Risotto

The Ingredients (plus wine, which was chilling in the fridge)

Morel and Asparagus Risotto Stove Top Step-By-Step

Stove Top Step-By-Step

I prepared the risotto, stirring for almost an hour to achieve that enticing creamy consistency. The fragrance of wine, butter, and onion melding together wafted through the kitchen, tempting all who walked by. After adding the morels and asparagus I held my breath and scooped up a small serving for my father and brother, shaving fine curls of Parmesan on top. They both grabbed a fork, took a bite, and then the magic happened- They liked it!

Morel and Asparagus Risotto

It was one of the happiest moments of my culinary life. I couldn’t believe that I had created a dish featuring mushrooms that would actually be welcomed at our family table. Victory was mine!


If you are lucky enough to find fresh morels this risotto remains our favorite way to enjoy the spring bounty of morel mushrooms. Now, whenever we make this dish (and we make it every year when the morels appear) I smile and think of my father and brother and the magic of morel risotto.



Morel Risotto (Printable Recipe)
Serves 4 (Main course)

Ingredients:

Vegetables
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 lb. fresh asparagus (about 14 spears), diced in 1″ pieces
2 shallots, diced
6-10 morel* mushrooms, gently rinsed, halved, and sliced in 1/2″ pieces

Risotto
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth, heated
4 dried mushrooms (optional, for added flavor to the broth)

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
2 cups uncooked aborio or carnaroli** rice
1/2 cup white wine (I used a Vouvray and we enjoyed the rest with dinner)

Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (I used about 1/2 cup)

Directions:

Rinse and prep all ingredients. Practicing mise en place is key as you need to stir the risotto constantly.

Place an 8 cup capacity pot over medium heat. Add stock and dried mushrooms (optional) to the pot. Warm up stock until it is slowly simmering. Reduce heat to maintain a slow simmer. Have a ladle nearby.

Prepare vegetables. Place a medium size saucepan over medium heat. Add oil and butter to the pan. When the butter begins to bubble and foam, add asparagus and shallots to the pan. Sauté for 5 minutes or until the asparagus is al dente. Add in morel mushrooms and gently stir the mixture. Cook for another two minutes to soften the mushrooms. Turn off heat and set mixture aside.

Place a heavy bottomed large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add 4 tablespoons of olive oil, the chopped onion, and the sage to the pan. Stir until onion is just softened- about 5 minutes. Add the rice into the pan, and stir until it is hot and evenly coated with oil- about 4 minutes. You will begin to see the rice turn from an opaque white color to clear. Now add in the 1/2 cup white wine and stir, maintaining a gentle simmer, until it is absorbed by the rice. Using the ladle, slowly add 1/2 cup of the broth into the pan. Stir the mixture constantly, maintaining a gentle simmer and allowing the liquid to become completely absorbed by the rice. Continue to add 1/2 cup of broth at a time, waiting to add each 1/2 cup until the previous broth is absorbed by the rice. Stir constantly to prevent sticking and keep the rice at a steady simmer. Continue to stir and add liquid until the rice is al dente and creamy. This should take 18-25 minutes depending on which type of rice you use. (If you used dried mushrooms in the broth, discard them or save for another use.)

When the risotto appears to be almost finished, add the reserved vegetable mixture into the pan. Stir gently to incorporate the ingredients. Taste to see if salt and pepper are needed and add them to the pan if desired. Turn off the heat and stir in grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Cover the mixture and let it rest for three minutes. Then serve immediately.

*Be sure to purchase your morels from a reputable source or if you are going hunting research the correct ways to identify mushrooms first. There are false morels which are toxic so it is important to know what you are doing before eating the morels!
**Carnaroli rice is a specialty Italian rice, which produces a very creamy risotto due to a high starch content in the rice (even higher than aborio rice). I used a package I picked up in San Francisco from Manicaretti and thought it did have a superior texture when compared to aborio rice, although aborio makes a darn good risotto too.


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