Thursday February 25th, 2010
This project may have pushed me over the threshold from ‘avid home cook’ into official ‘food loving nutjob’ territory. I have waited weeks to share this experience with you in fear that talking about rendering lard in January would break some cardinal rule of food writing and instantly add twenty pounds to my scale. Now that February is almost past I feel that I can safely talk about how in pursuit of the perfect pie crust I ended up with a massive hunk of pig fat sitting on my counter.
I am going to spare you the photo of the pig fat. It was big, scary, and the terrifying image of 10 pounds of pure fat has driven me to become best friends with my stairmaster. Why pig fat you ask? Well for years I have read that lard pie crusts are a sublime experience, creating a flaky pie crust nirvana that cannot be achieved with mere butter or shortening. Over time I have experimented with all butter pie crusts, all shortening pie crusts, and many combinations of the two. I have searched in grocery stores and online for a source of quality lard with no luck. One store bought package of lard smelled so rank I couldn’t bear to put it in a pie (or anything else for that matter). So after years of fruitlessly searching I came to the conclusion that I would have to make my own. When a local farmer told me that she was butchering a group of premium Berkshire hogs, I signed up to purchase the fat.
As Mr. B and I gazed at the mound on my cutting board we both wondered what the heck we had gotten into. Thankfully I had the reassuring guidance of both Homesick Texan and Not Without Salt in my back pocket, and could march onward toward pie crust perfection. Carefully I cut the fat into cubes, and then placed it in a very large pot with a little water at the bottom. The pot was heated gently until the fat started to liquefy while the water evaporated. Soon, an oddly familiar piggy aroma filled the kitchen. After about an hour of occasional stirring, the fat was completely liquefied and beginning to turn a light shade of brown. Traditionally this process will create cracklings, however I think the fat we purchased was already processed to some degree and did not have anything that looked like cracklings at the end. Once the liquid was strained through heavy cheesecloth, I ladled it into clean jars, let it cool, and then stored it in the fridge.
After a few weeks had passed (and the image of that mound of fat faded a bit) I decided it was time to put the lard pie crust theory to the test. Mr. B requested a Blueberry Peach Pie, so I opted to use half butter and half lard to achieve a balance of sweet and savory flavor in the crust. As you can see in the photo above, the lard created long streaks of fat in the dough. When heated in the oven, the fat liquefied quickly, leaving thin layers of air throughout the crust. Once cooled the crust looked almost perfect (note: when making a lard crust don’t go big on the edges of the pie, they will fall off in the oven!) With a slice of pie in front of me, I picked up my fork and pressed down on the crust. It shattered with a flurry of flakes sticking to the gooey fruit filling. The crust was tender, slightly nutty, and sweet. It was hands down the best pie crust I have ever made, bringing me very close to pie nirvana.
If you want to join me in the club of lard rendering food loving nuts, I encourage you to check out the detailed posts by Homesick Texan and Not Without Salt. I would like to try doing this a few more times before instructing anyone on the ins and outs of rendering lard. However with pie crust nirvana now within reach you can bet I will be rendering lard again!
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