Babbo, New York City
This past week I spent several days bouncing around New York City getting into all kinds of phoo-d trouble with Dana of The Kitchen Witch. I will post highlights of the trip later this week. First, however, I want to share how we kicked off the festivities with a dinner at Babbo, the home base for famous chef and restaurateur Mario Batali.
Tucked away on a quiet street in Greenwich village the exterior of Babbo appears to be another unassuming bistro style restaurant. Yet behind the black door a world of bustling waiters, gregarious patrons, and beautiful food awaits. Following the hostess past the narrow bar and packed tables we ascended a flight of stairs into a room filled with white linen and sparkling silver- all illuminated by light pouring through an enormous skylight. One would think that white glove service would lead to a formal (some may even say stuffy) atmosphere. Yet here is where the man in orange crocs throws you for a loop. Instead of muted whispers and clinking glasses, the room is filled with the sounds of Bob Marley and boisterous conversations as diners let loose and enjoy the experience.
Our first course, a beautiful caprese salad, reflected the confidence of the kitchen. Done poorly, caprese salad is a sad mix of rubbery cheese slabs, flavorless tomatoes, and tired basil drowned in olive oil and salt. It is a combination so awful you may hesitate to order caprese salad ever again. Yet, done properly, caprese salad is a tribute to the freshness of summer. Simple ingredients come together in a symphony of bright flavors entrancing everyone. Made with farm fresh tomatoes, Italian mozzarella, and tiny basil leaves, this caprese salad was summer perfection on a plate.
The meal continued at a steady pace with culatello (the center cut of a prosciutto) topped with pickled ramps and pecorino cheese. A course of handmade pappardelle pasta with chanterelles and thyme filled my mouth with a buttery soft texture and deep mushroom flavor. Duck torelli with “sugo finto” entranced my taste buds renewing my quest to discover the secrets of an excellent “sugo finto”. Tender slices of grilled hanger steak with royal trumpet mushrooms and a cipolline agrodolce rounded out the savory courses with a solid meaty flavor.
Just before the sweets appeared, we encountered the best dish of the night. The plate was so unassuming, just a monochromatic slice of cheese drizzled with honey, that I failed to take a photograph. (Terrible, I know!) Yet when a bite of the green peppercorn goat cheese mixed with fennel infused honey it was pure music in my mouth. Dana and I both looked at each other with wide eyes and said, “Wow!” The combination of flavors was nothing short of inspired and confirmed my belief that simple dishes can become superstars when given a chance.
Dessert brought a duo of seasonally focused cakes to the table. A softly textured peach budino was drizzled with honey and accompanied by a whipped raspberry creme fraiche with such an ethereal level of fluffiness I am still puzzling over how it was achieved. Our favorite dessert was an olive oil zucchini cake with a crackly exterior which gave way to a soft crumb beneath the weight of a fork. Paired with olive oil and orange infused gelato and a vanilla flecked honey butter the cake turned zucchini bread into a dessert worthy of white linen. Fortunately for us, the recipe can be found on the Babbo website or in a recent post by the Dessert King David Lebovitz.
With the desserts our evening came to a close and we hailed a cab back to the hotel, fat and happy from the decadent array of Italian dishes. Our adventures in New York were just beginning. The days ahead would bring tutus in Times Square, 2400 bloggers under one roof, and an attempt to stuff ourselves silly with dumplings. More fun coming soon!




kristin @ going country said..
HA! Even Mario Batali is trying to use up zucchini.
P.S. Where in hell is he getting RAMPS–the ultimate spring food–in late summer?
August 11, 2010 @ 1:34 pm
admin said..
Kristin- Lol, no kidding! I wondered about the ramps too, then figured that since they are pickled perhaps they put them up in the Spring to use throughout the rest of the year.
August 11, 2010 @ 1:44 pm
Nishta said..
Dazzled by the new look, lady! And thrilled to be able to live vicariously through what promises to be a badass NYC trip.
August 11, 2010 @ 1:49 pm
TheKitchenWitch said..
Had so much fun getting into phoo-d fun with you in NYC! Still dreaming about that damn goat cheese and honey! Who’d have thunk? Great review!
August 11, 2010 @ 1:49 pm
M @ Betty Crapper said..
What beautiful food. New York is so fun to visit and it looks like you had a great time.
August 11, 2010 @ 2:02 pm
Brenda (a farmgirl’s dabbles) said..
You lucky girl!! My husband & I walked into Babbo a number of years ago, hoping to enjoy some delicious Mario food, but it wasn’t open for the evening yet. We needed to keep moving, and never made it back to that area. Your description of the ambiance and meal make me want to book a flight right now. Can’t wait to see more of your trip!
August 11, 2010 @ 3:01 pm
kristin @ going country said..
Ah. Yes. I skipped right over the pickled part. Perhaps I should read more carefully . . .
August 12, 2010 @ 11:44 am
Jane said..
I am positively salivating over here. And I just ate dinner. But now you make me want more (of course, what you described here is leaps and bounds above what *I* just ate!) Absolutely yummy!
August 16, 2010 @ 10:51 pm
Phoo-d » New York City said..
[...] Babbo, New York City [...]
August 19, 2010 @ 1:54 am
Kate @ Savour Fare said..
I used to live in Greenwich Village when I was in law school, and Babbo was my most favorite restaurant. The pastas are inspired, the atmosphere never stuffy. Thanks for taking me back!
August 23, 2010 @ 4:40 pm
susan said..
My dear Phoo-d… nobody, and I mean nobody, can write about food like you do. You make everything such an adventure. Your photography is unrivaled, your recipes are amazing & your restaurant reviews inspire us to make additions to our ‘bucket list’! I didn’t make it to Babbo last time I was in NYC but I won’t miss it next time! Your new site is beautiful!
September 12, 2010 @ 5:59 pm
davenycity said..
great blog thank you
September 15, 2010 @ 11:16 am
Phoo-d » Olive Oil Gelato said..
[...] back in August, when The Kitchen Witch and I visited Babbo, we encountered a most unusual dessert. A small olive oil zucchini cake was paired with orange [...]
December 16, 2010 @ 8:02 am
donuts4dinner said..
This must have been a reeeeeeeally early dinner, huh? Or maybe the days were still long then. Because my pictures from Babbo are about 100 times darker than these. Yours look great!
December 17, 2010 @ 9:21 am