Spearmint Experiment

Spearmint Experiment

After his wildly successful batch of blackberry sage tea ice cream, Mr. B decided he wanted to continue experimenting with tea flavored desserts. Rummaging through our drawer of teas, he pulled out a big bag of loose-leaf spearmint tea. Hey! Let’s make a mint chocolate chip ice cream, he declared. Um…okay, I replied, but, I think there is a difference between spearmint and peppermint. It might not taste the same in ice cream. Mr. B was undeterred. I like spearmint tea, he replied. I bet it will make a great ice cream. I said, well, I do have a bag of dark chocolate chunks that would be good, and I really love mint chocolate chip ice cream. Let’s give it a try. Thus began our spearmint experiment.

We followed the blackberry sage tea recipe, swapping in the spearmint and adding chocolate chunks to the churning ice cream at the very end. The result was an ice cream the color of aged linen with a strong minty aroma. As I placed the first spoonful in my mouth, the top of my palate felt like it shot up two feet. It had that cold and airy feeling you get after chewing two sticks of spearmint gum at the same time. Tingling slightly my nasal cavities opened up and I could practically feel a mint breeze coming out of my eye-sockets. I looked at Mr. B and said, “Whoa, spearmint is definitely not a substitute for peppermint!”

The ice cream was not bad, per se, but it was definitely weird. I had a hard time getting over the thought that I was eating mint gum ice cream. Some people really dig that kind of thing, but for me it brings to mind bubblegum ice cream, which I detested as a kid. I was always afraid that I would accidentally choke on a gum ball, and ended up gagging my way through the cone, vowing never to order bubblegum ice cream again. The spearmint ice cream (thankfully) didn’t trigger a gag reflex, but it was still a strange way to end a meal. That being said, there is a time and place for everything, and if I were serving a garlic laden dinner, or needed a small palate cleanser between courses, spearmint ice cream may be an amusing and interesting choice. However if you are looking for a classic mint chocolate chip ice cream, learn from our spearmint experiment and go straight for the peppermint extract.


Spearmint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream (Printable Recipe)
Makes 1 Quart

Ingredients:
1 cup whole milk
2 cups cream
3/4 cup sugar
pinch salt
1 cup spearmint tea
1/2 cup chocolate chips/chunks

Directions:
Place a small pot with lid over medium heat. Warm up the milk, 1 cup of cream, sugar, and tea leaves, until the liquid is steaming but not bubbling. Stir to make sure the sugar is dissolved, turn off the heat, and cover the pot with a lid. Let the mixture steep at room temperature for 1 hour. Place the remaining 1 cup of cream in a medium bowl, with a fine mesh strainer on top. Pour the steeped liquid through the strainer into the bowl with the cream. Discard the tea leaves in the strainer. Stir the liquid mixture until well combined, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, then chill for 4 hours or overnight. After the liquid is chilled through, freeze the ice cream according to the manufacturer’s instructions. About 5 minutes before the ice cream is finished churning, add in the chocolate chips. Continue to churn until finished.

Blackberry Sage Tea Ice Cream

Blackberry Sage Tea Ice Cream

Before moving to the Dakotas I didn’t know what the words ‘snow storm’ really meant. I had seen snow. As a kid I recall pressing my nose against the cold glass window, watching big wet flakes fall from the sky and dissolve into green grass. My parents were ski instructors. Winter weekend mornings would start dark and early as we pulled on long underwear and tumbled bleary-eyed into the car for a long drive to the mountains. I experienced snow speeding down icy runs and feeling the sting of falling flakes hit my cheeks as I skied past. Yet, despite this, my understanding of snow storms remained limited.

Woodland Winter

Now, with a mere four Midwest winters under my belt, I think I am getting a clue. I have learned that blizzards come in two forms: Blizzards- where snow pours fiercely down from dark clouds while forty mph winds shriek sideways creating a battle of vertical and horizontal sky. And ground blizzards- where sunlight illuminates the air with glaring precision as strong arctic winds whip snow upwards from the ground creating a world lost in the glowing blur of white. I have learned that snow really can drift up to your roofline, bury your mailbox, and make the bbq disappear on the deck. I have learned to hold my breath, grip the steering wheel tightly, and press the gas pedal in wide-eyed terror as I plow through snow drifts to get out of the driveway. Mr. B says that I’m building character and that winters in the Midwest will ‘toughen me up’. I usually tell him to shove it. There is one last thing that I have learned about snow storms, and if you were around last year you may recall this too. Whenever the winds blow and the snow flies, Mr. B dreams of ice cream.

Oscar

This time when the craving struck I handed Mr. B the book, and suggested he find something interesting. I glanced over a few minutes later he had his finger on the page and a big grin on his face. “Let’s make tea ice cream!” he said. Intrigued, I agreed and we read through the recipe together, deciding to make a simple riff which required only four ingredients. Blackberry Sage tea, cream, milk, sugar- the ingredients were innocent enough. Yet when steeped together and churned into a cold creamy mix, the result was pure alchemy. Subtle dark notes of dried berry and tea mingled with the sweet cream base while hints of sage added complexity. Like a fine wine, the flavors unfolded in waves across my tongue. It was intoxicating. I declare with utmost sincerity that it was the best ice cream ever to cross my lips. From now on, in blizzards, ground blizzards, or mere snow storms, Mr. B won’t be the only one dreaming of ice cream.

Blackberry Sage Tea Ice Cream

Blackberry Sage Tea Ice Cream (Printable Recipe)
Makes 1 Quart
Adapted from The Perfect Scoop
Note: Blackberry Sage Tea is rather expensive ($11), however the unused tea leaves are (of course) excellent on their own, and will last a long time in your cupboard.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup Blackberry Sage Tea
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
Directions:
Place a small pot with lid over medium heat. Warm up the milk, 1 cup of cream, sugar, and tea leaves, until the liquid is steaming but not bubbling. Stir to make sure the sugar is dissolved, turn off the heat, and cover the pot with a lid. Let the mixture steep at room temperature for 1 hour. Place the remaining 1 cup of cream in a medium bowl, with a fine mesh strainer on top. Pour the steeped liquid through the strainer into the bowl with the cream. Discard the tea leaves in the strainer. Stir the liquid mixture until well combined, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, then chill for 4 hours or overnight. After the liquid is chilled through, freeze the ice cream according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Mexican Style Pulled Pork

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As our country struggles to pull out of recession I have become increasingly grateful for the lessons in frugality that my parents taught me as a child. While Mr. B and I are both very lucky to have jobs right now, I have several immediate relatives who are not as fortunate, and I know that life can often change without any notice. This meal is perfect for anyone looking to stretch out the food budget without sacrificing flavor or enjoyment. In fact this pork is so delicious all you’ll need is a margarita and lively music to feel like you’re having a party (which you easily could since it feeds 12 people!).

Prep Work
A bit of prep work makes everything easier!

Mexican Style Pulled Pork Stovetop Step-by-Step

Stovetop Step-by-Step

Once you make the upfront investment of buying a few spices that might not already be in your cabinet, you will find the options for easy Mexican flavored food at home endless. I use this combination of spices on all kinds of meat to make fajitas, tacos, grilled shrimp, and many other dishes. The spices would even make a flavorful meatless taco if added to portobello mushrooms, onions and bell peppers.

I found a 10lb pork butt at my local butcher for only $11 and used just half of it for this recipe. If you already own the spices and then add in the price of tortillas, avocado, sour cream, and a side of black beans the total cost comes out to about $3.00 per person. Not too shabby! We enjoyed pulled pork for five nights in a row- though half of it could easily be frozen if you don’t want to go on a pork marathon or throw a party. (I think I will freeze some next time…I’m starting to see pork in my sleep!)

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Mexican Style Pulled Pork
Serves 12

Ingredients:

Spice Rub:
1/2 teaspoon Adobo seasoning (Spice blend from Penzeys, optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground Cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground Allspice
1 teaspoon Epazote
1 teaspoon Ancho Chili Powder
1 teaspoon Sweet Basil
1 teaspoon ground Chipolte Pepper
1 teaspoon Sweet Hungarian Paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground Black Pepper
1 teaspoon Oregano
2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt

Braise:
2 Tablespoons Grapseed oil (or canola oil)
5 lb Pork butt (bone in or boneless), trimmed
1/2 cup Cider vinegar
1 Head of garlic, cloves peeled and trimmed
2 Poblano peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into 1/4″ rings
3 Anaheim peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into 1/4″ rings
2 Jalepeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into 1/4″ rings
1 White onion, chopped
28 oz can Fire roasted diced tomatoes
1 cup Cilantro, packed
1 Orange, cut in quarters
1 Lime, cut in quarters

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees with the rack in the lowest position.

Mix all ingredients for the spice rub in a small bowl. Place pork butt on a flat surface and rub the spice mixture all over the meat. (This could be done a day ahead of time.)

Place a very large (6 quart+) dutch oven or ovenproof pot with lid over medium heat. Add oil and heat until it begins to shimmer. Place pork butt in pot with the fat side down. Cook turning occasionally until all sides are nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Remove pork from pot and set aside on a plate to catch the juices.

Add apple cider vinegar to the pan and scrape the bottom to deglaze any stuck bits. (Try not to breathe in the steam or the vinegar will bother you for an hour!) Once the pan is deglazed, add in the garlic, onion, and peppers. Stir and cook over medium heat until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Next add in tomatoes and cilantro. Stir to combine all ingredients. Push contents of the pot towards the sides to make a well for the pork. Place the pork in the center of the pot and pour any collected juices on top of the meat. Squeeze the orange and lime sections on top of the pork, and then nestle them alongside the meat. Cover the pot with a lid and place inside the oven for five hours.

Once pork is finished cooking, remove from oven and let stand covered to cool slightly. Scrape any soft flesh from the orange and lime rinds into the pot and then discard them. Use two forks to gently pull apart the meat. It should easily come apart in long strands and chunks. Feel free to discard any fatty bits. Once the meat is shredded, stir well to incorporate the other ingredients in the pot throughout the meat.

Serve pulled pork on top of steamed corn tortillas with any combination of avocado slices, sour cream, shredded cabbage, diced tomato, and a squeeze of lime juice. The meat will improve in flavor over a day or two, and could be used to make tacos, empanadas, burritos, enchiladas, the possibilities are endless!

Short Ribs Braised in Coffee and Chilies over Artisanal Polenta

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You may have noticed that we’ve been on a bit of a braising kick lately. For the past several weekends, our cooking has consisted of numerous variations on slow cooked comfort food. I blame this on a combination of crappy weather and a bad case of Spring Fever. Symptoms include an urge to clean closets and frequent requests to “Go somewhere warm” or “Get me out of the house!” Unfortunately the only warm place I’ll be going anytime soon is under my thick comforter. When that is the case, cleaning out the freezer and cooking comfort food may be the best medicine!

Short ribs are always a treat and we had another batch in the freezer so this past weekend they made a repeat appearance. After really enjoying the Short Ribs Braised in Porter Ale with a Maple Rosemary Glaze, Mr. B requested a different approach for this batch- something involving coffee. I browsed around and found a great recipe from Mark Bittman of the New York Times for Short Ribs Braised in Coffee and Chilies. Mark’s self-appointed nickname “The Minimalist” held true in this recipe, which only relies on a few quality ingredients to make the short ribs shine. (Did you know that he was once a cab driver and a traveling salesman? Fascinating.) The smoky flavor of the chilies melded beautifully with a dark roast coffee and placed the focus of the dish straight on the deep beefy flavors of the short ribs.

Short Ribs Braised in Coffee and Chiles

The dish was very satisfying though a bit shy on sauce. To support the rich flavors we prepared a creamy polenta using Tenuta Castello artisanal polenta ordered from Cube Marketplace, a fantastic gourmet cafe in Los Angeles. Joy the Baker turned me on to the terrific polenta available at Cube in her post on vanilla brown sugar breakfast polenta. Mr. B saw the post and instantly said, “Let’s get some!” We ordered several bags of polenta and I promptly fell on the floor laughing my head off because the thought struck me, “Here I am in the middle of nowhere ordering artisanal polenta online. How silly is that? I am probably the ONLY person in this entire state to ever order artisanal polenta.” When the package arrived we did a side by side comparison with the brand I typically use to see if artisanal polenta was really worth the trouble of ordering online.

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You can see in the picture above that the polenta on the left (Bob’s Mills Organic Polenta) is definitely not stone ground and has a large quantity of the exterior yellow corn kernel in the mix. The Tenuta Castello polenta has a more varied texture with red flecks indicating the use of local red corn varieties. Grown in Italy by a family that has been making polenta for over 100 years, the Tenuta Castello polenta really knocked my socks off. I made two batches of the Tenuta Castello. One batch was made with cream and butter, which was delicious of course. However what really impressed me was the second batch, made with nothing more than water and a little salt. It was equally as creamy and flavorful- in fact we even preferred it to the first!

Artisanal Italian Polenta

The best way I can describe the difference between artisanal polenta and the other stuff is that regular polenta is similar to eating cream of wheat, with a uniformly smooth, warm and thick consistency. The Italian polenta was like eating a fine risotto, where a creamy background supports individual grains for a unique and marvelous texture. I think I’m hooked.

In my mind polenta is pretty much the perfect supporting character for a meal of short ribs. With our dinner, it backed up the beefy and spicy flavors while keeping the heat from the chilies under control. Along with a large batch of sauteed Swiss chard you will have a flavorful and comforting dinner, certain to cure even the worst case of Spring fever!

Short Ribs with Coffee and Chilies over Artisan Polenta
Recipe from The New York Times
Serves 4-8

Ingredients:
1 Tablespoon Oil
4 or 8 small short ribs
Salt and Pepper
1 Large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 dried pasilla chili, stemmed, seeded and minced
1 dried chipotle chili, stemmed, seeded and minced
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup strong coffee.

Directions:
In a heavy pot that can later be covered, drizzle oil. Over medium heat, brown ribs well, adjusting heat as necessary to get a dark crust. Take your time, and season with salt and pepper as they cook. Remove them to a plate and turn heat to low.

In same pot, cook onions, garlic and chilies, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft, about 15 minutes. Add wine and coffee and reduce over high heat by about half. Return ribs to pot, cover, and cook over low heat (or in a 300-degree oven) for 2 to 3 hours. Cook until very tender — beyond when meat falls off the bone — turning every hour or so. Taste and adjust seasoning and serve.

Braised Lamb Shanks with Coriander, Fennel, and Star Anise

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I find lamb shanks exciting. Perfectly portioned for individual plates, characterized by a melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and deep flavor, they are right up there with short-ribs as one of my all time favorite braised meats. Both short-ribs and lamb shanks are hard to come by in our town. Typically, I buy them when I travel a few hours away to civilization and then hoard them in the freezer for a special occasion.

Celebrating Valentine’s Day seemed like enough of an event to break out lamb shanks, plus I was itching to use my red tagine again. Mr. B requested a savory preparation to complement the Gigondas he picked up recently so I browsed around to see what I could find. This recipe for braised lamb shanks with coriander, fennel, and star anise came up on Epicurious and surprisingly had over 30 five star reviews. (Usually there are at least one or two embarassingly bad reviews which say, “I made this recipe and it was only okay because I don’t really like lamb” or “I used chicken thighs and thought the flavors were terrible”.) I took the high rating as a good sign- and boy was it ever!

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The ingredient line up

The finished lamb shanks were one of the best meals to come out of my kitchen in months. It think I experienced a shank epiphany. I mean as I said above, lamb shanks have always excited me, but these shanks – these shanks made me want to wax poetic and plan a dinner party for 10. Unfortunately I don’t know 10 people to invite and I’m not a great poet so all I can do is tell you to go make these shanks right away.

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Coriander, fennel, and star anise create an unbelievable symphony of flavors. Each bite was warm, earthy, and slightly exotic. Reducing port (a whole bottle!) along with beef and chicken stock for the braising liquid provided an underlying meaty sweetness that allowed the spices to shine. As with most braised dishes, the flavor managed to improve on the second day. Gigondas was a beautiful wine pairing, though is best enjoyed with the food- not by itself. If serving this dish for a dinner party (it would be a big hit) I would accompany it with a Greek salad, sweet potato and star anise soup, serve the lamb over a polenta custard, and finish the meal with a pistachio gelato and cardamom cookies. Anyone want to come over?

Preparing the Braise

Preparing the Braise

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If you want a “lollypop” appearance with the meat bunched up at one end and a nice bone showing, you will need to cut down to the bone in a circle all the way around the narrow end of the lamb shank. This will cut through the connective sinew that holds the meat in place, and let it ball up during the braise. Usually I do this when the meat is raw, but I forgot so I made the cut just after browning the meat instead.



Braised Lamb Shanks with Corriander, Fennel, and Star Anise
Bon Appétit, March 2006
Serves 4

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
4 large lamb shanks (about 5 pounds)

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 large white onion, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
10 garlic cloves, peeled
3 celery stalks, cut crosswise into 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 carrots, peeled, cut crosswise into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1 small leek
3 cups ruby Port
4 cups low-salt chicken broth
4 cups beef broth

6 whole cloves
2 whole star anise*
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

Directions:
Mix coriander, fennel, and peppercorns in heavy small skillet. Toast on medium-high heat until aromatic and slightly darker, about 2 minutes. Transfer to spice grinder; process until finely ground. Rub each shank with 1 rounded teaspoon spice blend. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large wide pot over medium-high heat (I used a tagine, but any large dutch oven would work). Add shanks to pot. Cook until brown on all sides, about 20 minutes. Transfer to large bowl. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to same pot. Add onion and next 4 ingredients; sauté over medium heat until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add remaining spice blend and stir 1 minute. Add Port and simmer until liquid is reduced to 2/3 cup, about 15 minutes. Add both broths; boil until liquid is reduced to 3 1/2 cups, about 30 minutes. (This took forever, and I didn’t have enough space in the tagine so I reduced the liquids separately in pots and then added them in. Next time I will reduce the liquids while I am browning the shanks to save time.)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Return shanks to pot. Add cloves, star anise, bay leaves, and crushed red pepper. Cover pot with foil, then lid. Place pot in oven and braise lamb until tender, about 2 hours. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Uncover and cool slightly. Place in refrigerator until cool, then cover and keep refrigerated. Rewarm in 350°F oven for 20 minutes before serving.)

Place 1 lamb shank on each of 4 plates. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce and vegetables over lamb and serve.

*Brown, star-shaped seed pods; available in the spice section of some supermarkets, at Asian markets, and at specialty foods stores.


Five Spice Feast

After making this recipe for Honey Glazed Five Spice Chicken with Leatherwood honey several times, I found myself intrigued by five spice powder. I had never really cooked with it much prior to the chicken recipe, but loved how the spice combination led to a warm, savory, and yet slightly exotic dish. So a few weekends back, Mr. B and I decided to cook up a five spice feast, creating five different dishes all using five spice powder in different ways. The lineup included:

Sweet Potato Star Anise Soup with Ginger Cream
Recipe from Chowhoundwith slight modification noted below
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Firecracker Sugar Snap Peas with Five Spice
Recipe Below

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Apple Pie (with five spice of course!)
Add about 2 teaspoons of five spice to your favorite apple pie recipe

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Five Spice Ice Cream
Recipe from Gourmet, Oct. 2008

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It was a wonderful way to explore the different uses and attributes of a spice, and I think I’ll attempt something similar in the near future with other under appreciated spices in my kitchen.
The soup had a nice blend of savory and sweet flavors, with the ginger keeping it bright and interesting. I did add about 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes to give it a bit more heat, because Mr. B and I both enjoy soups with a little kick.

Roasting a chicken added to the “comfort food” aspect of the meal, and the recipe from Wholefoods is one of my favorites for roasted chicken.

The Firecracker Sugar Snap Peas with Five Spice complemented the rest of the dinner nicely. Here’s my simple recipe for the peas:
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Firecracker Sugar Snap Peas with Five Spice
1 bag of sugar snap peas (about 3 cups) – rinsed, strings and ends removed
1/2 cup water
2 teaspoons canola or vegetable oil
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1/2 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon five spice powder
salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Once the skillet is warm, add sugar snap peas and 1/2 cup of water. Cover skillet with a lid and let cook two or three minutes until the snap peas are steamed through. Remove skillet and let water evaporate. Add oil and stir peas to coat. Add in the remaining ingredients and stir fry until garlic is golden and peas are slightly browned. Remove from heat and serve.
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The pie and ice cream were delicious. I loved how the creamy cool ice cream contrasted with the warm flavors of five spice. The five spice apple pie was a good twist on an original that would still satisfy those who love classic apple pie. The ice cream recipe doesn’t call for five spice powder, but rather you make your own with, among other things: dried tangerine peel, star anise, pink Szechuan peppercorns. (You can mail order from Penzey’s – one of the best spice stores on the planet.)

So if you’re looking to explore five spice powder or just to cook up a weekend feast, here are several great recipes to get you started. Five spice is a perfect flavor for fall!

Tongue Travels

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While I have not yet been lucky enough to travel to Tasmania, since I discovered Leatherwood Honey my tongue has made the trip several times. It started innocently enough, when I picked up the July 2006 issue of Gourmet magazine and started to read a feature article on Tasmania and honey (“The Secret Life of Bees”, pg. 108). The photos were stunning and I was pulled into the article by lush descriptions of a tiny island with a huge diversity of vegetation. Over 30% of Tasmania’s land is preserved and you will find everything from eucalyptus trees and temperate rain forests to dry grassland and alpine forests on this little island south of Australia.

Within the temperate rain forests of Tasmania grows the shrub-like Leatherwood tree. When this tree is filled with white blooms somewhat resembling a wild rose, the bees get busy and we get lucky. Leatherwood honey is considered a “monofloral” honey, which basically means that the bees practice flower monogamy and stick to Leatherwood blossoms exclusively. Monofloral honey is highly valued because it often is very distinct reflecting the unique nectar characteristics of a single plant species.

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This photo isn’t of a Leatherwood blossom but you get the idea

So what kind of trip will Leatherwood honey take your tongue on? Well, it is guaranteed to be dark, exotic, and full of complex twists and turns. After reading the article in Gourmet I looked online and ordered my own jar of this special honey. When it arrived I immediately twisted open the lid, and dipped a spoon into the jar’s thick golden contents. Once the spoon was in my mouth I closed my eyes. Immediately I could imagine standing in the midst of lush vegetation at the bottom of the world. Sunlight poured through a dense canopy of leaves and Leatherwood flowers bloomed nearby. Okay, so I couldn’t imagine it perfectly, but oh could I taste it!

The honey has a fragrant bouquet with medium sweetness. It holds dark, complex, almost mossy flavors, with a lingering taste of sweet damp foliage. The overall effect of this nuanced flavor is similar to that of fresh truffles. I have never tasted a honey before or since that is anything like Leatherwood. It is absolutely unique and as JenJen writes “This needs to be on the list of flavors to try before you die”.

Aside from blissfully sucking on spoonfuls of the honey, it is a wonderful substitute for regular clover honey in this recipe for Honey Glazed Five Spice Chicken. If you want to make a Leatherwood themed meal, the chicken pairs well with this recipe for honey glazed carrots and a glass of dry Riesling. I am about two-thirds through my current jar of Leatherwood honey and was delighted to find that you can now order it on Amazon. This wasn’t the case a few years ago and I ordered it from a rather sketchy New York grocer, who I won’t recommend here. So if you want to try one of the world’s truly unique flavors, take your tongue on a trip to Tasmania!

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